McKinney Falls Bouldering

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About

Summary

McKinney falls holds a high concentration of some of Austin’s hardest boulder problems.

Written by

Carlo Nasisse

Distance

0.0 miles

Destination Distance From Downtown

7.8 miles

Difficulty

4 of 5 diamonds

Time To Complete

0 hours

Seasonality

Spring, Fall, and Winter

Dog Friendly

Yes

Fees Permits

Yes

$5 entrance fee

Review

Intro

McKinney falls holds a high concentration of some of Austin’s hardest boulder problems. It is notorious for short, powerful moves on small pockets. Located just twenty minutes from downtown Austin, McKinney is a central part of the local climbing scene. 

What Makes It Great

If this is one of your first times climbing, then McKinney is probably not the place to build up confidence. Strong climbers often complain that they fall on the V2 warm-ups. The climbing is unique and the grades can feel sandbagged if one isn’t used to McKinney’s blend of burley moves and thin pockets. If you’re looking to test your tendons and your ego, look no further. 

Here are some classic problems: 

Tilted Earth - V10 

Naval Power -  V7 

Power Slide - V6 with mono 

Prow Merchant- V8 

The Prow- V4

Evil Eyes- V5  

Trapeze Freak- V8 

Born to Drag- V5 

Blur- V9 

Who is Going to Love It

Strong, experienced climbers will get more out of this area than beginners, though the complex, muscly problems are great goals for boulderers to aspire to. If you're prone to burnout, combine your climbing fun with hikes in the area. 

Directions, Parking, & Regulations

The bouldering is housed within McKinney Falls State Park (5808 McKinney Falls Parkway Austin, TX 78744).

The entrance fee is $5 per adult; children are free. Enter through the main entrance, pay the fee, and then take the first right which dead ends in a parking lot. It’s a five-minute walk from here to a large limestone slab. The bouldering is along the West-facing edge of the slab, where water has worn away at the rock creating hundreds of feet of featured cliff line. 

Location

McKinney Falls Bouldering

Mckinney Pay Area
Austin, TX, 78744
30.196311, -97.730807

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