Tucked away in the sleepy town of Rumney, New Hampshire sits this world-class climbing crag. Located just 2 hours north of downtown Boston, Rumney, the crown jewel of sport climbing in the Northeast, features climbs for both beginners and experts alike. Ease of access, both from major highways, as well as from the parking lot, make Rumney an extremely popular destination at all times of the year, but especially during weekends and holidays. Going to climb during these times will likely have you waiting for a turn on any of the popular climbs. Don't say I didn't warn you!
What Makes It Great
Rumney is a great place to get away for a weekend to enjoy the woods and cliffs of southern New Hampshire. During the warmer months, camping can be found all along Buffalo Road, which allows for folks to get a ton of climbing mileage in and not have to worry about commuting anywhere.
Another seriously awesome feature about Rumney is the Baker River, which flows right by the cliffs and continues lazily onward until it runs into Plymouth and the Pemigwasett River. After a long day of climbing, nothing beats a dunk or a float down the river.
As a note, the best time to climb at Rumney is during the Spring and Fall. Summer climbing can be reasonable as well, but it is known to get hot and buggy, so planning a morning and late afternoon climbing session might be in your best interest. Winter climbing can lend itself to some ice formations for those aptly prepared, but is generally much too cold for sport climbing.
Who is Going to Love It
In short: everyone. Rumney is super accessible to climbers of all abilities. New to climbing and worried you might get in over your head? Check out Parking Lot Wall and the Meadows, both only a 5 minute hike in from the car and have a great variety beginner routes, both short and tall.
Maybe you've been climbing since before your first diaper was changed and your first words were "Crimp this, Mom!" If this is the case, the seasoned rope-gun will find themselves right at home at Waimea, which has a plethora of tall, bouldery 5.12s, 5.13s, some 5.14s, and is home to the infamous "Jaws 2" which clocks in at 5.15a.
Directions, Parking, & Regulations
Getting to Rumney is a breeze. Hop on I-93 north and take it all the way up to Exit 26 in New Hampshire. From there, follow NH-3A South to NH-25 West to Main Street. Follow Main Street to Buffalo Road and take a left. The two parking areas will be down on your right.
Day use passes are $3 per car and can be found at the trailhead.
Note: If the main lots fill up, additional parking can be found behind the library in town. Its a fairly short walk, but if you decide to risk it all and park on Buffalo Road, chances are high that you will be towed.