Lumpy Ridge in Estes Park harkens back to a time when climbing was predominantly trad and the ratings were stiff. Nearly all the climbs in this area are 2 - 5 pitches, with the longest lines stretching out over 800 ft. There isn’t much for beginners at Lumpy as the majority of climbs are 5.9 - 5.11 (and a 5.9 here could easily be a 5.10a or 5.10b elsewhere). Protection is run out, cracks are inconsistent and the rock can be hard to read.
What Makes It Great
Tough trad climbs and longer routes are the hallmarks of Lumpy Ridge. Some may say that this is pure climbing (there are a few bolted routes) but the truth is that many of these climbs are just as difficult mentally as they are physically.
But when the climbs are good, they are great. There are a few beauties below 5.8 but the best routes are generally going to lean towards advanced climbers. Expect long run outs and varying rock but for those who like a good challenge and a long day, Lumpy Ridge is the place to be.
Who is Going to Love It
Mentally tough trad climbers with the skill and guts to run out long routes but also intermediate trad leaders who want to push their abilities on tough but fair routes.
Directions, Parking, & Regulations
Take US 36 to Estes, head across the lake and go straight at the first stoplight you meet. At the second stoplight, head straight, the road curves left here and passes the Stanley Hotel. Take a right 1/4 mile after the Stanley on Devil's Gulch Road. Head straight on this road for a mile or so (Lumpy Ridge should be quite obvious in front of you) until it begins to curve right. When it curves right, there will be a wooden gate that says McGregor Ranch. Take the road through the gate for a half mile, to the Lumpy Ridge parking lot.
There are no fees for parking or climbing. For more information on specific climbs and crags, please visit Mountain Project.