Lying a bit off the beaten path, this popular crag is well-known for its great face climbs and hard sport routes. With most of the climbs ranging from 5.9-5.12 this crag is great fun for the more seasoned climber.
Located in the Bolton Valley hills, nestled above the Quarry and underneath Bone Mountain, 82 Crag has more than 25 climbs ranging from 60 feet to 200 feet. The iconic six-foot tall 82 spray-painted on the face of this crag makes it one of the most recognized cliffs in Bolton as it can be seen from the only highway heading in and out of Burlington. But it’s not until recently that this relatively remote crag has found its place in the climbing world with local climbers developing some great two-pitch face climbs and some of the best hard sport routes (5.12s) in the area. After committing to the 30 minute approach along logging roads and wooded trails, climbers will find a nice mix of trad and sport with great views from the top. Permanent access to the area was secured by local climbing nonprofit, Crag VT, in 2008 through their partnership with the Vermont Land Trust.
What Makes It Great
The face climbs and sport climbs on these walls are unbeatable. The trick here is that they sit in the 5.9-5.12 range, so this is not a crag for beginners. But, if you can handle the grade you will be well-pleased by what you find here. Crimp Chimp (5.10a), on the Main Face is considered one of the cliff’s, if not the area’s, best face climbs along with it’s neighbor, Year of the Dog (5.10c). Excellent sport climbs like Doggfather (5.12b) and Encryption (5.12c) are found on the Steep Face, home to the 82, and uphill from the Main Face.
What else makes this climbing spot great? The views. So be sure to stop and take a look around once you reach the top.
Who is Going to Love It
Climbers comfortable on 5.9-5.12 routes will have a blast at this crag. With six 5.10s offering great face climbing and seven 5.12s offering arguably the best sport climbing in the area there is no lacking for fun climbs in this range. Be prepared for the longer hike in, but know that it’s worth it once you get there.
Directions, Parking, & Regulations
Park at the Bolton Quarry lot at the top of Green Mountain Road. The best approach directions can be found in Tough Schist: Rock Climbing in Northern Vermont: Follow the logging trail around the left side of the Quarry. When level with the top of the Upper Quarry the trail forks. Follow the left trail. Head steeply up muddy logging roads for a few hundred yards then take a right fork onto a very steep logging road with a small rock slab a few miles up. Approximately 100 yards up is a T intersection at a boulder with an interesting tree growing out of the top of it. Turn right here and follow the logging road gently uphill a short distance. Hike about 150 feet to a steep logging road on the left. Turn left onto the road and head steeply uphill. Follow flagging up the logging road and then into the woods on the right. Join another logging road, turn right, and head downhill. The cliff and final approach trail will soon be visible on the left.