About
Summary
Home to the best trad climbing in the Carolina Piedmont, Moore’s Wall is a 300 foot face of quartzite that attracts climbers from all over the state and region.
Destination Distance From Downtown
Difficulty
3 of 5 diamonds
Climbs range from near-beginner to very difficult.
Seasonality
Spring, Summer, and Fall
The popular northern facing wall is a bit protected in warmer months.
Dog Friendly
On Leash Only
Fees Permits
Yes
Free self registration is required in the park.
Review
Intro
Located in the western half of Hanging Rock State Park, Moore’s wall is one of the best examples of trad climbing in the state. The wide variety of grades, from 5.4 to 5.14, offer something for more or less experienced climbers.
What Makes It Great
On any given weekend of nice weather, you'll see licence plates from around the south east and beyond at the small climbers lot in Hanging Rock State Park. The same rugged quartzite rock outcroppings and overhangs that make this a popular hiking destination create the premier NC climbing playground.
As many of the classic trad routes are on a north facing wall, Moore’s is a great option during warmer months. There are, however, good routes to be found year-round.
While the parking lot at Moore’s Wall will certainly show plates from all over the east, the craggy walls and overhangs are local favorites as well. Established NC based climber Erica Lineberry suggest route’s along the Circus Wall. The range of difficulty, from 5.4 to 5.10 on this exposed section of rock is a great place to warm up and tackle a tough climb in one area.
Many rap stations will require a bit of searching and a bit of down climbing. Some are not traditional tree slings etc. But the climb up some of the south-east most classic trad routes, some dating back to the 1960’s and the early days of NC climbing.
Who is Going to Love It
Any climber looking for a classic trad experience. There isn’t much better in Carolina piedmont. Craggy quartzite and overhangs, a wide range of difficulty, and tons of well-documented routes should supply every level of climber with plenty of reason to visit.
Directions, Parking, & Regulations
Moore’s Wall is located inside Hanging Rock State Park. Approach Moore’s from the parking lot off of Hooker Farm Rd as noted on the state park map. A free registration is required for all climbers and is available at the climber’s kiosk at the parking lot. You’ll also find a bathroom and drinking water there.
The hike up gains a bit of elevation and should take less than a half hour. Check the kiosk for partial closures of Moore’s Wall. The park staff manages these closures to protect migrating falcons.
