Stone Mountain State Park Climbing

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About

Summary

Stone Mountain State Park features a 600-foot tall granite boulder that is a climber's dream come true.

Written by

Rob Glover

Destination Distance From Downtown

83.2 miles

Difficulty

4 of 5 diamonds

4

Time To Complete

1 to 8 hours

Seasonality

Fall, Winter, Spring

Dog Friendly

No

Fees Permits

Free, self registration

Land Website

Link to Website

Review

Enticing climbers to visit your state park is easy. All you need to do is install a giant granite dome which explodes 600 feet out of the surrounding forest floor. Luckily for Stone Mountain State Park in NC (no, not the same as the one in Georgia) someone thought to do just that a few hundred million years ago.  The granite edifice boasts some of the best friction climbing around. The exposed south face is in full sun all day. This means it is a fantastic climbing alternative for cooler months when other options are a bit chilly.  Long run-outs (40 feet or more are common) and a fully exposed, nearly featureless rock face make climbing here an exciting challenge. Gear placement opportunities are rare but the system was rebolted in 1998.  The most obvious and perhaps famous route is The Great Arch. The climb is a bit a-typical of Stone Mountain in that the 400-foot, 5.5 trad climb is well protected and provides a hand/finger crack as well as a few trees to sling. You can walk off the summit on the trail or rappel off with double ropes. This route will be busy on many weekends and Holidays so it’s best to get there early to avoid long waits. There are tons of other Trad climbing options in this same area as well. To access the wall pass the visitors center on the main park rd about 2 miles and park in the Upper Trailhead lot (bathrooms and drinking water). Take graded, gravel road to the Hutchensen Homestead (reconstructed primitive log cabins). Cross the well-worn path across the meadow to the base of the mountain (beneath the tree ledge). If you hike back down from the summit you’ll hit this road from the Stone Mountain Trail.

Location

Stone Mountain State Park Climbing

3042 Frank Pkwy
Roaring Gap, NC, 28669
36.397935, -81.051539

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