Castle Rock is a South facing turret of Sandstone that, for many years, represented how painfully close yet far away 'Closed' crags can be in the Chattanooga region. The obvious u-shaped cliff line overlooks the small town of Jasper, Tennessee and is located on private property. Thankfully, in 2005 the Southeastern Climbers' Coalitionnegotiated and signed a land-lease to access and climb on the cliffs at Castle Rock. Also thanks to negotiated lower access, the approach to this once remote cliff can be done in a mere 10 minutes.
What Makes It Great
The cliff provides a healthy mix of traditional sport style lines, while the cliff's south-facing aspect makes the area almost entirely a Fall to early Spring crag (with a few shaded exceptions). Traditionally, Castle Rock has been home to some of the South’s hardest and most-coveted high-end sport climbs. In particular, the cliff is home to the renowned Apes on Acid, a 13d test piece. However, in recent years, the crag has been equipped with a large number of high quality moderate climbs that have transformed Castle Rock from a once ‘hard-men only’ destination to a now well-rounded crag offering a good time for climbers of all skill levels.
The vertical style climbing here gives the area a borderline adventure feel that is exacerbated by the big-air provided by the panoramic views of Sequatchie Valley unfolding below. In other words, Castle Rock is another beautiful southern sport- and trad crag to add to your tick list.
Who is Going to Love It
Any sport climber that would like to get on some tried and true classics of the south.
Directions, Parking, & Regulations
Parking is only allowed in designated areas. Before leaving your car in the parking lot make sure to send a text to the Castle Rock land owner with the make and model of your vehicle. A sign with the phone number is posted at the parking lot. Also remember to be out before dark and to respect all rules of the land owners.
For full details on Castle Rock, make sure you check out Chatt Steel, a comprehensive guide to Chattanooga Sport Climbing.