Boney Bluff is situated near Echo Cliffs and the Boney Mountain State Wilderness in the Santa Monica Mountains Recreation Area, and has been called one of the best training sport crags in So Cal. The rock here is good quality, pocketed volcanic Breccia, like that at Malibu Creek Canyon, with routes tending to be about 30-40 ft tall. There are numerous routes that link together due to the almost grid bolted nature of the walls here. The many variations here make it where you can almost create a new route every time you leave the ground.
What Makes It Great
The easiest route starts at 5.10 and the hardest one is a 5.14a “Open Project”. There is some bouldering, so bring a crash pad if you want a day of off rope training instead. The approach is about a 1-hour uphill hike, so arrive early if you want to get a full day in, and be sure to bring plenty of water. All of the routes are concentrated in two caves near the Main Wall, making it easy to move from route to route without having to pack up and hike.
Top Ten Routes
1) Funky Pump 5.11b Sport
2) The Alchemist 5.11b Sport
3) Funky Pump 5.11b Sport
4) Europa 5.11c Sport
5) Skinny White Boy 5.12d Sport
6) Sureshot 5.13a Sport
7) Outrage 5.13a Sport
8) Bionic 5.13b Sport
9) Lithium 5.13c Sport
10) Atmosphere 5.13d Sport
Who is Going to Love It
The routes here are undoubtedly stout and are mostly suited for advanced level climbers.
Directions, Parking, & Regulations
From MountainProject.com: "From the Ventura Freeway (101) take Westlake Blvd for 7.2 miles until it's possible to turn right onto Mulholland Drive. After 0.4 miles turn right on Little Sycamore Canyon. Go 4.7 miles and park at the Backbone Trail/Sandstone Peak parking. Hike up the fire road to the Sandstone Peak summit. From here, follow the single-track trail straight ahead which is slightly faster then the fire road. Take a trail heading off left and parallel the creek for about 5 minutes until you pass a right-hand fork and an entrance sign for Point Mugu State Park. Shortly after the sign, you encounter another climber's trail leading up to the cliff."
There is no camping allowed here, but it is dog friendly.