Echo Cliffs crag is in the Santa Monica Mountains Recreation Area and contains over 180 sport routes. Some of Southern California’s tallest and steepest sport routes are found at Echo Cliffs.
What Makes It Great
Echo Cliffs is one of the least crowded crags in the LA area; this is probably because the approach hike takes about 30-45 minutes, and much of the trail is in poor condition. This is great for keeping the crowds away, but the approach can seem somewhat time consuming after a long drive from town, so start early if you want to get in a full day. What's really nice about Echo Cliffs though is that evening climbing here is refreshingly shaded and cool, especially during fall and spring months.
Unfortunately, there has been a big problem with climbers failing to use Leave No Trace practices; i.e. leaving behind trash, using the restroom too close to the trail, and allowing their dogs to wander off leash. As a result, the National Park Service has been wary about climber access to Echo Cliffs, and they've even shutdown a few areas to protect endangered flora and fauna.
Rock here is very chossy, so your belayer may want to wear a helmet.
Top Ten Routes
1) Psychedelic Sally 5.6 (Easy Street) Sport
2) Black Crack 5.8 (Blackface-Energy Wall) Sport
3) Black Tide 5.9 (Left Flank) Sport
4) Intellitoys 5.9 (Test Site) Sport
5) The Guillotine 5.10a (The Alcove) Sport
6) Blackout 5.10c (Easy Street) Sport
7) Sasha 5.10c (The Upper Tier) Sport
8) Death by Chocolate 5.10d (Chocolate Wall) Sport
9) Restrain this **** 5.11b (Pink Wall) Sport
10) Crash and Burn 5.12d (Kamikaze Cave) Sport
Who is Going to Love It
Most of the routes are in the intermediate to advanced range (5.10-5.12), though there are several 5.8-5.9 climbs and even some easy grade multi-pitch routes as well.
Directions, Parking, & Regulations
From MountainProject.com: "From Highway 101 take the Westlake Boulevard exit and head south on Westlake (California 23). After roughly 7 miles turn right (west) on Mulholland Highway. After half a mile turn right on Little Sycamore Canyon Road, which becomes Yerba Buena Road. After 4 miles park in dirt pullouts on either side of the road. The trail starts from parking lot on the right (west) side of road."
The area is dog friendly, but, as already hinted at, they must stay on a leash and they are not allowed on the cliff above. There is no camping here. Be respectful of the environment and enjoy some very good climbing at Echo Cliffs!