Malibu Creek State Park is a beautiful climbing destination located in the Santa Monica Mountains National Recreation Area. It has over 120 routes with some of the best quality pocketed volcanic rock in the Los Angeles area. There are easy top-rope routes as well as bouldering and steep overhanging sport climbs sprinkled throughout the park, making it a diverse place to spend a day cragging.
What Makes It Great
There are three main climbing areas: “Planet of the Apes,” named after the famous movie filmed here, is good for beginners interested in learning to top rope. “Mt. Gorgeous” is one of the newer climbing areas and is not too far from the “Stumbling Blocks” area that hosts 5.7-5.10 bolted sport routes for beginner to intermediate sport climbers. Lastly, there's the “Ghetto Wall,” with its steep overhanging cave style sport routes, and the “MASH” boulder named after the 1970’s TV show that was filmed here.
When there is water in the Malibu creek, several pools provide a nice escape from warmer weather, and there is even some bouldering above the water to have a cool splash as a crash pad. Dogs are not allowed on park trails; they're restricted to pavement and the parking lot only. There is camping at this park, making it a great destination to escape the city in a unique SoCal landscape for the weekend, and to take friends from out of town to give them a taste of the cool volcanic rock formations for which the Santa Monica Mountains are known.
1) Chopping Blocks 5.8 (Stumbling Blocks) Sport
2) Head O Lettuce 5.8 (Crags Rd. Crag’s: Iceberg Boulder) Sport/TR
3) Scarab 5.9 (Century Lake) Sport
4) Katmandu 5.10a (Ghetto Wall) Sport
5) Oil and Vinegar 5.10a (Crags Rd) Sport
6) Power Station 5.10b (Century Lake) Sport
7) Rolling Blackout 5.10c/d (Century Lake) Sport
8) Marauding Monkeys 5.11a (Mt Gorgeous) Sport
9) Monkey Sang, Monkey Do 5.11c (Planet of the Apes) TR
10) Ghetto Blaster 5.13b (Ghetto Wall) Sport
Who is Going to Love It
The many trails here provide nice hikes to the climbing walls, so you can really make it a daylong adventure. There are few routes below 5.10, as most fall in the intermediate 5.10-5.11 range.
Directions, Parking, & Regulations
The park is located on Las Virgenes/Malibu Canyon Road, four miles south of Highway 101.