Rock Climbing seems to be having a popularity surge in the United States these days. Rock climbing gyms are popping all around the country; that trend proves to be as true in Los Angeles as it does in other major cities. Not only does LA have this growing indoor climbing community though, it has a nice selection of outdoor climbs as well. Stoney Point is one of those iconic climbing in the greater LA area. Its routes are as strong at face value as the climbing history that has happened there. Stoney Point is a LA city park located in the Santa Susana Mountains. The Santa Susanas are flanked by the massive San Gabriel Mountains to the east, and the more scenic, ocean hugging Santa Monica Mountains to the south. What they lack in fame and size they make up for in a surprising amount of geologic and biologic diversity. Stoney Point lies a little bit south of the more remote parts of this range, but it still carries some of the appeal.
What Makes It Great
In this small park alone there are over 190 routes. Of that number, about 130 are bouldering problems. Of these problems, you will find most of them to be somewhere in the v1-v3 range, but if you really want to challenge yourself, there are some v4s and up that you can climb. Of the 60 or so top rope climbs, the majority are 5.9s and 5.10s but again, there are many more difficult climbs as well. Most of the rock in the park is sandstone and will hold up well to climbing except for after storms when some of the rock can be crumbly so give the rock a few days to settle after it rains.
Unfortunately, to go along with all the great parts about this park, it is near a major US city and so falls victim to common city problems like trash, graffiti and sometime even selfish climbers trying to change the rock to make it easier to climb.
Some of the most popular climbs at different levels include Mr. Toad’s Legitimate Ride (v0, Bouldering), Split Decision (v1, Bouldering), Choinard’s Hole (v2, Bouldering) and Simiolus (v3, Bouldering). The best way to find these is to talk to a knowledgeable local at the site, and have him/her show you the ropes.
Who is Going to Love It
As with all outdoor climbing spots, this is a park that is really only accessible to those who know how to climb outside, and how to do it safely. That being said, once those criteria have been met, climbers of different ability levels can find challenging routes here. If you love to climb and hang out with fellow local climbers, this is the spot for you.
Directions, Parking, & Regulations
Stoney Point is an easy point to access, making it ideal but also at times crowded. The park sits at the intersection of Topanga Canyon Boulevard/CA Hwy 27, a road that will take you clean to the Pacific, and Highway 118. It is easy to get to the park from either direction. Since this it is an LA City Park, protected by the city, it is free to enter and free to park, but there isn’t anything in the park besides the rock and some trash cans; no water and no bathrooms.