Crackhouse Bouldering

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About

Summary

Six bouldering problems in the roof of a tunnel that range from 5 to 10 feet off the ground in a 20 foot tall rock structure featuring The Crack House an 85 foot long, 5.13 bouldering problem across the roof of a cave with two entrances.

Written by

Sallie Shatz

Distance

2.0 miles

Destination Distance From Downtown

8.4 miles

Difficulty

5 of 5 diamonds

Time To Complete

0 hours

Seasonality

All Seasons

Dog Friendly

Yes

Fees Permits

No

Review

Intro

The Crack House was made famous almost two decades ago when Dean Potter did the first traverse of the 85 foot long route. There is also a route called The Dean Variation also rated at 5.13 as well as four other bouldering problems 5.11, 5.12+/13-, 5.12 and V4. It’s a great place to go, give it a whirl and watch others when you are too pumped out.

What Makes It Great

This structure is unique. Stepping into it and following the crack visually will make you giddy. It is a rare feature. The Crack House is full 4-paws in the crack, upside down traverse of the ceiling of this cave with two openings.

There are six established, rated routes- The Crack House 5.13, 5 stars, The Dean Variation 5.13, The Birth Canal 5.11, 5 stars The Yuji Crack 5.12+/13-, Fat Crack 5.12 and No Cracks In My House V4. All of these will keep you busy and out of trouble for a while.

Who is Going to Love It

A seriously strong boulderer with abs of steel, several crash pads and a good spotter will love this. The ceiling of the cave 5-10 feet off the ground, it is a great place to play. These problems are full 4 paws in the crack on the roof of a cave/tunnel. For the experienced, it is a great workout, for the less experienced, give it a go, and have some fun.

Directions, Parking, & Regulations

Take 191 North from Moab, turn left on 313. Take a left at 12.5 miles on the well-signed turnoff for Gemini bridges road. This is a 4x4 road but cars can access it. Drive past Gemini Bridges (consider taking a side trip and walking out to them on the way out.) The Crack House is on the left 1/4 mile past this point 6.2 miles from the turn off from 313. It’s visually obvious with 2 openings and there is a pullout for several cars to park.

This is BLM land, there is no charge for access or parking and dogs are allowed.

Location

Crackhouse Climbing

Moab, Utah,
38.587259, -109.703612

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