The Long’s Canyon section of the Moab climbing book High on Moab by Karl Kelley dedicated 34 pages to Long’s Canyon, that is the most pages for one climbing area in the book dedicated to one climbing area. The majority of the climbs are cracks ranging from tips to seriously wide. The majority of climbs are rated 5.10-5.12 with trickles in each direction up and down.
What Makes It Great
Only 30 minutes from Moab, this area is a crack climbers dream. A ridiculous number of climbs and endless possibilities for new route, this place is playful. The road into Long’s has parking up to 3.3 miles from the start of the canyon with climbs, parking and camping all along the way.
It is less crowded than Indian Creek and not as popular because it’s lesser known.
Who is Going to Love It
Long’s Canyon is a crack climber’s paradise. The majority of the climbs are rated 5.10-5.12 and you will need a sizeable rack. Think Indian Creek without the crowds and the long drive from Moab. There is an incredible amount of climbing in this canyon.
Directions, Parking, & Regulations
From Moab, drive north on 191 and take a left on Potash Rd miles north of town. Drive 13.5 miles to Jug Handle Arch. Take a right into Long’s Canyon. Mountain Project has great details about the routes and options at Long Canyon, visit their page here. Unlike most BLM area, this is bighorn sheep lambing grounds and dogs must be on leash.