Wall Street is a 1-mile long section of Sandstone along the side of the road, 10 minutes from Moab, Utah. There are around 130 climbs in that one mile; right on the side of the road, in some cases a foot or two off the road. They range from lower angle friction (good for getting used to climbing on sandstone) to strenuous, balanced, face climbs. There are also splitter cracks and demanding roofs. Wall Street has it all, and everyone knows it… and they are all climbing there at once.
What Makes It Great
Wall Street is easy access. You can belay on your bumper if there is enough room between the road and the wall. Always park in designated areas, as this place gets busy and Route 279 has large semi-trucks hauling loads of Potash right next to you. Be sure to keep dogs leashed and children attended.
Wall Street has a rich climbing history. In the single 1-mile stretch of sandstone, there are 130 climbs rated between 5.3 and 5.12.If it is your first time on Sandstone, go to the School Room, the lower angle area towards the far end. Once you are used to the feeling of sandstone,there’s too much fun to be had there.
Do not top rope off the anchors, and don't climb on sandstone when it is wet, holds will fall off in your hand and you will have ruined a route. Let the rock dry 24-hours or more after precipitation.
Most of the routes are bolted, but a good size trad rack will cover your bases. Routes are from 40-100 feet long. Guidebooks are available in town at climbing stores.
Who is Going to Love It
Wall Street is the kind of place you can look back at 25 years of climbing there and realized you’ve built memories there with half your Facebook friends. Some days in the desert are meant for long approaches and climbs in solitude and some days you just want to go to Wall Street and have some fun.
There is something for everyone. Always try to see the anchor bolts you are going to as funky stuff happens and some have been removed. Over the years, more delicate face climbs and most recently, more entrance level climbs have appeared. It’s one of those places where whole families are climbing together on something low angle not far from world class climbers just out for some altitude.
Directions, Parking, & Regulations
From Moab, drive north on route 191, cross the Colorado River and take a left on Potash Road 2.3 miles north of town. Go 4.4 miles and you can’t miss it. The nearest bathroom will be on your right as you approach WallStreet, Jaycee Campground.
Park in designated areas only. This is important - you want to be fully off the road in an appropriate place. This road, as mentioned before, is used to haul Potash; you do not want your car, your dog or child in the way of one of those trucks. You also don’t want your car hit by the rubbernecking climbers and other tourists marveling at this spectacular wall.
There is no fee to climb here. Be responsible with your trash and have good manners. Climbers are on top of each other, so know that there can be lines.