Chatfield has the opportunity for traditional, sport, mixed, and toproping. Get on Forearm Frenzy, 11b, for an awesome zig-zag trad crack, Shape Shifter, 12c, sport. Also, if you are toproping anywhere in CT, bring at least 50 feet of static line for anchors. There are very, very few climbs with bolts to toprope off of.
What Makes It Great
Chatfield Hollow is rarely super busy. Rock is metamorphic gneiss. The best time to climb is in fall and the main wall will take a few days to dry after a decent rain, as it is well shaded. Cliffs are compact and probably no higher than 60 feet.
Climbing ranges from 5.3 - 5.13a. Boulder problems can be found at the Indian Caves directly behind the main entrance parking area and scattered throughout the park.
Who is Going to Love It
Pretty much any climber, as there are trad and sport routes, as well as bouldering problems, will have fun at Chatfield Hollow.
Directions, Parking, & Regulations
Chatfield is located 35-40 minutes from downtown New Haven via 95N or Rt. 80E off 91N. The climbing is visible from the road on the left.
There is parking available in a right-hand turnout a few hundred yards before the park entrance on Rt.80 and there is more parking available on the right and left as soon as one turns into the park entrance.