Tucked in the forest above Highway 2, Farley Ledges is a gneiss paradise. The only factors that keep Farley from being significantly more popular are the lack parking and the notoriously inclement Western Massachusetts weather. Actually, it’s a little more complicated than that, as part of Farley is on private land, and other parts are often closed for raptor nesting. If you plan to visit Farley Ledges, consider reading this article first.
What Makes It Great
Unfortunately, there is no published route or bouldering beta published at this time, due to the delicate access situation. However, the locals are very friendly, and if you respect their home crag, they’ll happily tell you whatever you need to know.
For the roped climber, Farley offers several tiers of walls that, though close to each other in distance, feel like different areas entirely. Dozens of routes from easy to hard exist in every grade, both sport and trad, and undone projects exist as well. Check out Yosemite Crack and Barndoor, both are moderate gear routes that are gorgeous. Many bolted routes are also there for the sport climbers, but I can’t tell you much more than that! As for boulders, you’ll hit the main area just by walking the trail. There isn’t a ton of easy or moderate stuff; the best lines are in the V8+ range. Still, you’ll find plenty of rock to play on, no matter your grade range.
The camping situation is difficult, unfortunately, but an adventurous weekend warrior might be able to scrounge a spot out of the way along the numerous windy forest roads that surround the town of Farley. There is also plenty of hiking to be found in the surrounding hills.
For a more detailed guide of the surrounding area and a trip report, check out the RV Project’s write up here. And bring mosquito repellent!
Who is Going to Love It
Whether it’s fall or spring, and you want to climb your choice of sport, trad, or boulders on amazing gneiss, then Farley is your choice.