The town of Mocanaqua on the Susquehanna river in northeast Pennsylvania has several climbing areas. The climbing areas have bouldering, sport, trad and top rope routes. The rock type ranges from conglomerate to sandstone.
What Makes It Great
Mocanaqua is a good place to explore if you have already climbed at all of the areas closer to Philadelphia. The rock is solid and cliffs get to about 60 feet tall. The Paradise Wall is the cliff you see from the nearby bridge over the Susquehanna River. This wall gets sun all day, so it dries out quickly and stays warm on sunny winter days. The routes at this wall are mostly trad with a few sport routes. The best routes at paradise are New Generation (5.12) and Rambo (5.11). Across the Quarry, the Library wall gets much less sun. It is a better summer spot, but it takes longer to dry after a rain. The Library is mostly sport routes like Lightning (5.12a) and Flamer (5.11a). Down the road, the Main Wall has more trad routes and a few bolted climbs. Zig Zag Crack (5.8) and Mercury (5.11) are the classics here.
Drive a few miles further to get to Squirrel Rock. This area has sandstone instead of the conglomerate and quartzite rock of the previous crags. Squirrel Rock has a few routes, but is mainly a bouldering area.
Who is Going to Love It
There sport, trad, and top rope climbing at Mocanaqua ranges from 5.4 to 5.13. The Main Wall has some of the best easy routes like Beginners Top Rope (5.4) and Pizza (5.6). For more difficult climbs checkout the Nuclear Arms and Thunderstud (both 5.12) at the Library, and try Astro Projection and Agent Orange (both 5.12) at Paradise. The bouldering at Squirrel Rock ranges from V0 to V11. Try Shell Shocked (V11) if you are looking for a challenge.
Directions, Parking, & Regulations
There are several climbing areas in Mocanaqua. The location listed here will get you to the parking for Paradise wall and The Library. For these walls, park in a lot at the end of Main Street. Walk across the railroad tracks and hike up into the woods follow a 4-wheeler path up into the quarry. You will reach Paradise Wall first. The Library is located across the quarry.
For the Main Wall, take SR 3004 east from the town of Mocanaqua. After about a mile, park in a small dirt lot on the left. The trail to the main wall is on the right side of the parking lot.
To get to Squirrel Rock, continue 3 miles further on SR 3004. Park on your right just before the woods opens up on a graveyard. The trail for Squirrel Rocks is across the street behind a yellow barrier. Take this trail for 3-5 minutes and then turn left onto a smaller that takes you to the boulders.