Close to the south end of the valley is a crag that offers 5.6-5.11a climbing routes of weathered quartzite. Red Rock in Draper (definitely not the one in Vegas) is a small crag with several different routes. Everything here can be top-roped, so it’s a great place to bring beginners or folks who need a safe route to work on technique.
What Makes It Great
All the climbs on the Red Rock crag are sport climbs, so the routes are bolted. The rumor is that all of the routes were set by a dentist, which would explain the names of routes like Cavity Bones, The Cuspidnator, Dry Socket, Bloody Impaction, and Gum Cheese.
Since it’s so good for beginners, this crag can get pretty crowded. Any of the 5.6 rated climbs are a good warm-up for the beginner such as Baby Teeth or Always Leave a Generous Root Tip. Each of these climbs has great holds for both feet and hands. These are also great to practice lead climbing on if you’re ready to go that direction.
All the climbs are pretty short at around 40-50 feet tall, and if you do intend to lead climb, make sure you have an extremely attentive lead belayer especially on Latrogenic Pain rated at a 5.11a. If the climber happens to fall at the crux there’s a high possibility of hitting a ledge, so be careful there.
If you’ll be top roping the climbs, head up to the right of the climbs (if you’re looking at the wall), and there’s a path that leads you up to the top where you’ll set your ropes.
If you plan on leading some climbs, take some quickdraws with you and locking carabiners for anchors at the top to clip to the chains. This will help avoid wearing the chains out at the top. Of course, you’ll need the basics for belaying such as an ATC or GRI-GRI device, a harness and climbing shoes. It can get pretty warm up there if you don’t hit the crag early in the morning, so take sunscreen and plenty of hydration if you intend on being there for a while. There are no bathrooms at the beginning of the approach or anywhere close to the climbs. Be courteous to other climbers as space can get tight and leave no trace when you leave Red Rock.
Who is Going to Love It
Because all of the climbs at Red Rock can be top-roped, this is a great crag for beginners or for experienced climbers who want to focus on specific techniques in a safe environment.
Directions, Parking, & Regulations
To get to Red Rock, take I-15 to the 14600 South Exit #288. Head east on Highland Drive about 0.8 miles to Traverse Ridge Drive then turn right. Follow Traverse Ridge Drive for 1.3 miles then take a left on Mike Weir Drive. Look for the gravel parking lot on the east side of Mike Weir Drive, just south of the South Mountain Golf Course. This is where you’ll park.
From the parking lot, follow the trail taking you to the Bonneville Shoreline Trail. Keep an eye out for the sign that says Red Rock and take a left up to the crag. It’s about a five-minute approach.