Corte Madera - Climbing

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About

Summary

Corte Madera is well known for its good granite traditional climbing and for its sport routes.

Written by

Taylor Reilly

Distance

0.0 miles

Destination Distance From Downtown

33.3 miles

Difficulty

3 of 5 diamonds

Time To Complete

0 hours

Seasonality

All Seasons

Dog Friendly

Yes

Fees Permits

No

Review

Intro

The granite rock of Corte Madera is well known for both traditional and sport route climbing. There are plenty of clean, bolted routes on the face of this impressive cliff, but the trad routes are known to have chossy rock. The multi-pitch cliff faces south, so climb early in summer months. Most of the climbs are easily accessed from the top of the rock if you want to just set up a top rope. Have fun climbing at Corte Madera!

What Makes It Great

There's a good mix of climbing here, with nice intermediate sport routes and good multi-pitch options as well. Here's a run down of some of the more popular lines:

1) April Showers 5.8 Sport, 1 pitch (El Nino Wall) 2) Satellite Dish 5.8 Sport, TR, 1 pitch (Solar Slabs)3) Swoosh 5.8 Sport, TR 1 pitch (El Nino Wall)4) Candid Chimera 5.10a Sport, 1 pitch (El Nino Wall)5) Sunset Streaks 5.10a Sport, 4 pitches (Main Wall) 6) South Buttress 5.10a Trad, 4 pitches (Main Wall) 7) Pay Per View 5.10b Sport (Video Dome) 8) Cardiac Arete 5.10c Sport, 1 pitch (Coulter Grove/Rest Home) 9) Sunken Treasure 5.10d Sport, 2 pitches (Main Wall) 10) One Step Beyond 5.11b Sport, 1 pitch (El Nino Wall)

Who is Going to Love It

The sport routes dominate this area, with more than half of them falling in the 5.10 range. Intermediates and experienced climbers will enjoy taking the sharp end of the rope here, while the rock on the sport routes are good for more casual climbers to follow or top rope. 

Directions, Parking, & Regulations

From Mountainproject.com:From San Diego, head out East on I-8. Exit Buckman Springs and head South of the freeway. Right on Corral Canyon road (Morena Stokes Rd on Google). Park 4.9 miles up the road and hike in on a trail to your right (1.5-2 hours). If you have 4WD then continue up the road. Head right onto a dirt road at the first intersection and follow this to within a 1/2 hour of the top of the cliff. 

Location

Corte Madera

Los Pinos Rd
Cleveland National Forest, CA,
32.7555, -116.591

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