Originally known as Eagle Peak, this old-school crag is located in north Escondido in a city park called Dixon Lake. The climbing area is small with several beginner to intermediate cracks and faces close to one another.
What Makes It Great
The rock is well worked from past climbing and continues to get worked heavily on the weekends. There is some bouldering here, although the top ropes and short leads on clean granite are the most popular options. Here are some of the routes you'll find at Dixon Lake:
1) The Y Crack 5.7 Trad, TR (The Y Crack Area) 2) Bouldering Face 5.7 Trad (Eagles Peak Area) 3) The Scalpel 5.9 TR (The Prowe Area) 4) Hairy Airy 5.9 Trad (The Y Crack Area) 5) The Shoulder 5.10a Trad, TR (The Roof Area) 6) Blood and Roses 5.10b Trad, TR, (The Prowe Area) 7) Arete 5.10b Trad (Moon Germs) 8) VH1 5.10+ (Eagles Peak Area) 9) Chinese Arithmetic 5.11a/b TR, (Eagles Peak Area) 10) Overhanging Crack 5.12a, (Eagles Peak Area)
Who is Going to Love It
There is very easy access to set up a top rope, which makes it a good place for beginners to learn how to place pro, but you will need a nice size rack and long slings for anchors.
Via I15, exit El Norte Parkway and head east. Follow this for about 4 miles until the park sign appears to one's left. Turn left here on La Honda Drive. Following this one mile up the steep road, where one can get a glimpse of the crags on the right up on the hill. At the park entrance, follow the signs to "Trout Cove" parking lot. Park here and jog across the road to a trail that gives one a visual of the first part of Dixon Lake Crags in about 30 seconds. There is a $5 per vehicle day-use charge on weekends and holidays. Because of the potential problem with poaching, visitors to the rocks are encouraged to observe the closing time of the lake to avoid a potential citation. Entrance is free during the week.