Valley of the Moon is like a miniature Joshua Tree National Park. This awesome area lies on the border of San Diego and Imperial Counties near the Mexico Border.
What Makes It Great
There are tons of different rock formations with varying types of routes ranging from sport to trad and featuring mostly good rock quality. To add to the experience, the drive in requires a 4WD or at least a high clearance vehicle. There are no facilities out here, so bring the gear and water you need. Enjoy climbing in the high desert at Valley of the Moon, here's a rundown of a few of the classic lines.
1) Look No Hands 5.8 Sport (Sundagger Wall)2) Crackerman 5.9 Sport (Sundagger Wall)3) Rough + Ready Crack 5.9+ Trad (Sundagger Wall)4) Dog Leg Crack 5.10a Trad (Tombstone)5) Tec-9 5.10a Sport (Patina Wall)6) French Curve 5.10a/b Sport (Sundagger Wall)7) Last in Line 5.10b Sport (Headbanger Wall)8) Mac10 5.10c Sport (Sundagger Wall)9) Heats on 5.10d Sport (Gravity Wall)10) Shortest Straw 5.11a (Headbanger Wall)
Who is Going to Love It
Intermediate and developing climbers will love this area - there are about 20 sport routes from 5.6 - 5.10. The climbing here is a bit cooler and the rock is good to go year round, though it can get hot in the summer.
Directions, Parking, & Regulations
Requires 4WD vehicle. 8 east, exit In-Ko-Pah Park Rd. Two quick rights gets you going West on the 80 for about 100 yards where you enter the dirt road on the south side of the road. Head left-ish on this to end up heading south east. The road number is 155. Through some hills for 2+ miles and park at a turn - around. Do not drive into the areas posted as wilderness. Continue hiking down the road for ~1/2 hour to formations reminiscent of Joshua Tree.