Just off of Highway One is the best bouldering in Marin County. Oceanside crags offering over 60 problems dominate the popular nudist area just west of Stinson Beach. It's not for beginners, most problems range from V5-V8. Sport climbing is an option too, ranging from 5.12-5.13.
The water sometimes breaks right beneath you, so check the tide logs before you go. If it's crowded, bring your surfboard too, for an epic California beach day.
What Makes It Great
Climbing at Mickey's Beach is classic Northern California. Cool sea breeze, coastal flowers decorating the steep cliff, and one of the most popular nudist beaches around, define this challenging climbing spot. Changing tides and afternoon winds add to the complexity of the area, while friendly vibes in a small beach town welcome hundreds of visitors each weekend.
Notorious for great white shark sightings, Stinson Beach is a popular destination, right off Highway One and just North of Mickey's. Along the main drag, the small town has a convenience store, a couple restaurants and bars and a surf shop for board and wetsuit rentals.
The Serpentine rock is known to break, especially after a heady storm in the 90s when an entire face broke off. The surface often seems slippery even on a hot dry day, so try to ignore guidebook ratings, it's harder than it seems.
Who is Going to Love It
Fit climbers looking for a good challenge. Oceanside views (and conditions!) add extra difficulty and fun. Outdoor aficionados enjoy the nearby camping, hiking and surf spots, too. On a nice, sunny day, be open to all possibilities, many nudist beach goers enjoy Mickey's too.
Directions, Parking, & Regulations
There are three different areas to park. At each one hide all your valuables. If you're camping at Steep Ravine, the parking lot is the most accessible to Mickey's.
If you're coming for a day trip either park at the main Stinson Beach parking lot and walk south towards Mickey's, or park in the designated gravel pull out, and safely hike down to the beach. Dogs are allowed at the north end of the beach, but not near the crags. Bring lots of water. Bathrooms are located a ways away at the main public beach.