The Gibraltar Rock area is one of the most popular and oldest roped rock climbing spots in the Santa Barbara area. There are approximately forty five routes with a mix of sport, trad and top rope options to choose from. Climbs range in difficulty from 5.6 to 5.12 with one to two pitches. Some of the best routes are the T-Crack ( a 5.10 one pitch trad and top rope route), Pseudomania (a 5.11 trad/top rope one pitch climb) and the 5.12 sport climb Jabberwocky. The routes can be popular especially on the weekends.
What Makes It Great
The good mix of climbing make this a fun area for all levels of climbers. The formation is 140 feet at its highest point, making it a great place for climbers to go for a multi-pitch adventure without too much time commitment. Most of the routes are intermediate, though there are a few routes 5.11 and above for experts.
Who is Going to Love It
Climbers who have had their first taste of rock and are ready to advance will appreciate the moderate terrain and encouraging locals. The bolted routes are fun and most are rated as intermediates. There's also good opportunities for top roping as well.
From Highway 101 take the Las Positas off ramp. For those coming from the south turn right; for those coming from the north turn left. In either case, drive toward the mountains to the north of Santa Barbara. Continue up Las Positas for .85 miles to State Street, where the name of Las Positas changes to San Roque. Continue driving straight toward the mountains until you come to HWY 192 (Foothill Road) in another .5 mile.
Turn right at the intersection and continue up Foothill Road for 1.9 miles to its intersection with Mountain Drive. Turn left onto Mountain Drive and drive for .5 mile to its intersection with Gibraltar Road. Gibralatr Rock is about five miles from this point. You will recognize Gibraltar Rock located to the west of the road when you begin to see a large sandstone formation immediately to your right (east side of the road). This formation is “The Bolt Ladder.” Gibraltar Rock is a little further up the road and to your left. There are ample turnouts for parking between here and the next two turns in the road.