Located North of Santa Barbara in the mountains of the Central Coast, Lizard's Mouth is the most popular and expansive sandstone bouldering location in the area. Along West Camino Cielo Rd. there are plenty of turnouts to park for a great view or a hike through the "Rock Playground" as the locals call the expansive boulder fields that overlook Goleta with views past the Channel Islands on a clear day.
What Makes It Great
There are many established problems here, with the main attraction being the 20 ft cave traverse. Top rope is also available with pre-existing bolts already present. Exceptional year round weather makes Lizard's Mouth a great place to boulder regardless of the season. The trail system through the boulders can be difficult to trace the first couple times you go there, so if you stay past the spectacular sunset, be careful not to get caught in the dark without a flashlight.
Who is Going to Love It
This area is a beautiful setting for climbing. The majority of routes are rated between V0 - V3 - perfect for beginners and intermediates. There are a good collection of more difficult routes we well, up for V12. Any boulderer will enjoy the many puzzles on these rocks.
Directions, Parking, & Regulations
To get to Lizard's Mouth, drive up West Camino Cielo Road (also called Kinevan) off of San Marcos Pass and park on the dirt turn outs along the side. If you reach the shooting range, then you've gone too far.